Explore Trinidad’s Wild Heart: A Conservation Journey Awaits

Grande Riviere in Trinidad offers an extraordinary glimpse into nature’s raw beauty, distinct from the typical sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters associated with Caribbean destinations. Nestled between lush rainforests and the ocean, this area is home to one of the world’s largest populations of leatherback sea turtles. Visitors are drawn not for a typical holiday experience, but to witness a remarkable conservation initiative where a community once known for hunting turtles now dedicates itself to their protection.

Witnessing Nature’s Miracle

Guests at Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel enjoy a simple yet elegant stay just steps from the turtle nesting grounds. The hotel offers ocean-facing rooms that provide a tranquil setting for travelers. Days here unfold at a leisurely pace, featuring leisurely swims in a warm plunge pool and authentic Trinidadian cuisine. The highlight, however, occurs during the nesting season when guests may be roused from their slumber to witness female turtles laying their eggs on the beach.

While some visitors may miss the call to witness this event, many have the opportunity to experience the hatching of baby turtles. Community patrols safeguard the beach around the clock, ensuring that hatchlings emerging during daylight do not fall prey to predators like vultures. Instead, these tiny creatures are gently collected into shaded buckets until dusk, when visitors participate in the poignant release of the hatchlings. As they make their way to the sea, the sight of these delicate creatures glimmering under the moonlight is a profound reminder of nature’s enduring cycles.

A Rich Tapestry of Conservation and Adventure

Historically, leatherback turtles were first documented in Grande Riviere during the 1930s when they were hunted for food and oil. A transformative shift began in the 1960s when scientists from the University of the West Indies collaborated with local residents on turtle conservation efforts. Len Peters, a local resident turned conservationist featured in the documentary “Blue Planet II,” recalls the pivotal moment: “We had no idea these creatures, around when dinosaurs walked the earth, needed our help.” Today, thanks to decades of dedicated work, Grande Riviere has blossomed into one of the world’s vital nesting sites for leatherbacks.

Beyond turtle watching, visitors can engage with Trinidad’s wild side through activities organized by HADCO Experiences, which operates Mt. Plaisir. This tour company champions “regenerative tourism,” focusing on creating positive impacts on local ecosystems and communities. Guided excursions include boat trips to Paria Waterfall, showcasing dramatic sea caves and rock formations, followed by rainforest hikes and barbecued fish lunches. Tropical downpours are embraced as refreshing breaks in an otherwise idyllic day.

For those seeking a more immersive rainforest experience, a two-hour journey inland leads to Asa Wright Nature Centre, another HADCO-run ecolodge deeply rooted in sustainability. Here, mornings resonate with birdsong as trails wind through vibrant forests rich in rare flora and fauna. Natural bathing pools and secluded waterfalls provide tranquil swimming opportunities, reinforcing the center’s commitment to conservation.

Exploring these trails with a knowledgeable guide like Giselle Lares, an indigenous naturalist, enhances the experience. Lares, who grew up exploring the forest, shares her deep connection with every tree and bird call, encouraging visitors to appreciate the beauty of nature. “Don’t look for anything,” she advises. “Everything is welcome.” This philosophy underscores the notion that nature reveals itself in its own time.

Excursions from Asa Wright include a visit to the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, a vast 12,000-acre mangrove wetland recognized as a significant natural carbon sink. Under the guidance of Winston Nanan, a third-generation conservationist, participants glide through serene waterways populated by caiman and herons, culminating in breathtaking views of thousands of scarlet ibises roosting at sunset.

For those seeking a unique adventure, HADCO can arrange visits to the Mount Tamana Bat Cave. As dusk descends, millions of bats emerge from a cave historically regarded as sacred, creating a spectacular display that connects visitors to the island’s natural rhythms.

Embracing Local Culture

What truly sets both Mt. Plaisir and Asa Wright apart is the warmth and pride of the local community. Staff members, all drawn from nearby areas, share their knowledge and love for the landscape. Their enthusiasm is palpable, whether through the family recipes shared by cooks or the guides who navigate the forest paths with familiarity.

Trinidad’s essence extends beyond its wildlife; it resides in its culture and people. A visit to the Musical Instruments of Trinidad and Tobago Company provides insight into the history of the steelpan, the island’s national instrument. Originating from the ingenuity of enslaved individuals who transformed oil drums, the steelpan has evolved into a symbol of unity. Visitors can witness artisans hand-tuning each instrument and interact with young apprentices, including female tuners, who are helping to carry this rich tradition forward.

The journey through Trinidad reveals not only its breathtaking landscapes and remarkable wildlife but also a community that has transformed its relationship with the environment. Tourism here has evolved into a force for regeneration, allowing visitors to engage in a larger conservation narrative. A trip to Trinidad is not merely an observation of nature; it is an invitation to become a part of its enduring story.

Alexandra Genova was a guest of Asa Wright Nature Centre and HADCO Experiences at Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel.